training

There really is not a lot information available on training domestic cats, because, by nature, pet cats are NOT as readily trainable as dogs. All cat owners know this fact and accept it. After all, that is part of the "cat mystique".

However, if your concern is litterbox training... that is the one thing that is pretty much a "no-brainer". Cats (kittens) are naturally very clean, and litterbox training can be accomplished in short order . If you acquire a kitten or cat that has no litterbox experience (was born and raised outside), you can re-train your pet by showing it where the litterbox is in your house. Then, place your kitten/cat in the box and gently show it how to dig in the litter by moving its' front paws back and forth in a digging motion. Your kitten/cat will take it from there. You may have to do this a couple of times, until your pet catches on. Oh yeah, keep the litterbox in the same location in your home, so your pet does not have to go on a hunting expedition when "nature calls".

Save yourself and your family members aggravation... KEEP THE LITTERBOX CLEAN.

Kittens/cats will NOT use a dirty litterbox, and a dirty litterbox something powerful! I clean the litterboxes with a plastic slotted shovel (one litterbox for each cat) two or three times each day. I use plain scoopable litter. DO NOT FLUSH SCOOPABLE LITTER down your toilet (bag and trash it), unless you really enjoy spending your hard earned money on plumbers.

I learned, after much trial and error, that much of what is sold for pets is actually intended to appeal more to the pet owner, than to the pet. After all, the pet owner is the one with the money. Just because "something" is expensive or has a fancy designer name does not always mean that "something" is better. Most cats do not like "scented" litter, heavy clay litter or litter that is made from reconstituted pine, so, it is my opinion that you will be wasting your money by purchasing such litter.

The litterbox will stay cleaner if you use scoopable litter, and your cleaning "chore" is made infinitely easier. I use large plastic litterboxes with removable scatter guards ($10 at Wal-Mart)...no liners. I replace the litter once every two weeks. Pour the old used litter into trash bags and toss into the trash. Caution: avoid breathing the dust from the litterboxes. Also, occasionally wash your litterpans with an anti-bacterial soap, rinse thoroughly, and air dry before re-filling with new litter.

By the way... kittens typically love to play in the litterbox... so KEEP IT CLEAN!

Cats are, at best, difficult to train... but not because they are unintelligent. Cats just naturally dance to the beat of a different drum. A CAT IS NOT A DOG. Unlike a dog, a cat will not respond to training as rapidly or with enthusiasm. Basically, whatever path you choose to follow in training your cat... BE PATIENT AND BE CONSISTENT... administer a reprimand for undesirable behavior with love not anger. NEVER STRIKE YOUR KITTEN/CAT!

Training your kitten/cat to be house-friendly can be frustrating. How do you keep your pet from jumping on the diningroom table, the kitchen counter, or the stove top (this can be extremely DANGEROUS for your kitten/cat)? How do you keep your pet cat from shredding your artificial house plants, draperies, sofa, or bedspread? These are behaviors that are second nature to cats. Cats/kittens do not realize they are doing something undesirable and destructive. Our job, therefore, is to GENTLY show them what we expect of them, if they are to live harmoniously in our homes.
From my own experience... the word NO spoken loudly (NOT YELLING) and firmly seems to be what cats respond to best. You can follow the word NO with a little squirt of WATER from a spray bottle (DO NOT spray around electrical stuff, though) or roll up a newspaper or magazine and slap it soundly on a hard surface (like a table top or the floor). NEVER SLAP OR HIT YOUR KITTEN/CAT... that will only make your pet distrust you and may cause injury. My cats also respond to the words GET DOWN, when spoken loudly and firmly.

Another thing you might find helpful is rewarding your cat for desirable behavior with a tiny, tasty bit of tuna, salmon, chicken, or turkey. Start "training" while your cat is still a kitten and follow through into adulthood. Remember, an adult cat will be more difficult to train or re-train than a kitten. Whatever the case, be gentle, be patient, be firm, be consistent.

I know you have heard the saying..."You are what you eat." That little statement of monumental truth holds true not only for humans, but for animals. If our pets are to live long, active, healthy lives, we must provide them with adequate, nutritious food. Your pet felid is a carnavore (meat eater). Therefore, you need to provide your cat with a high protein, nutritionally balanced food formulated for kittens/cats. I recommend kitten food for kittens under one year of age, adult maintenance food for cats over one year of age, and if warranted, a good healthy-weight management cat food after your cat reaches five years of age.

You don't have to spend big bucks to get good cat food. There are several nutritionally complete economical formulas available, such as Purina Cat Chow. My cats seem to like the taste and texture. I simply fill a clean pet bowl with the dry nuggets... cleaning and refilling again when the bowl is nearly empty.
Yep, I make the dry food available 24/7. I believe that if you begin feeding in this manner when your cat is just a young kitten, your cat will grow into a lean, healthy adult. Most animals and many humans gorge themselves whenever food is available. In animals this tendancy to gorge is instinctual... a matter of survival should food become scarce. In my opinion, your felid's tendancy to gorge can be overcome if fresh, dry, nutritionally complete food is always available. Thus, throughout the day, your cat eats only what is necessary to maintain his/her optimal energy level, health, and normal weight.
Once or maybe even twice a week, as a treat, I feed my cats a small amount of canned (drained) water-packed tuna, salmon, chicken, or turkey. I have four cats, and I divide one small 6 oz. can of tuna equally among my four. Remember, cats are smart... this should not be done more than twice a week and never on the same days of the week. You don't want your felid to stop eating the dry cat food you provide in favor of an anticipated treat. Also, should you get the urge, giving food from your table is a big NO,NO... many human foods do not agree with felid stomachs, and NEVER give furry pets bones of any kind.

Finally, because your kitten/cat is consuming dry food, you must provide a constant, adequate supply of fresh, clean water in a separate pet bowl. Your felid will require a substantial amount of clean, cool, fresh water daily in order to process the dry food. I rinse and refill my cats' water bowls as often as three times each day... so they are never without fresh water.